The Matriarch of Margaret: Cullen Wines

Introduction

Vanya Cullen hands me a Biodynamic broad bean and urges me to taste it, to ingest an exemplar of Rudolph Steiner’s philosophy. I would prefer it to be cooked. It has taken years for me to include green vegetables into my dietary regimen but raw, uncooked ones?

I demur. Should I ask Vanya if we could retire to her restaurant kitchen and rustle up a vegetable casserole so that I can fully appreciate the quality of the Biodynamic bean? Or should I keep my mouth shut, chew the bean, appreciate its natural flavours and get on with learning about one of the founding wineries of Margaret River and one of its finest exponents of both white and red wines. I choose the latter.

We have already seen how instrumental the medical profession were in establishing the very first vineyards, but let us not forget the crucial role played by their wives. Many photographs of Margaret River’s early days depict women planting vines or knee deep in vats. These women were getting their hands dirty or at least stained purple with grape juice. Perhaps it is no surprise then, that the region now boasts many talented female winemakers and they do not come more talented than Diana Cullen who founded “Wilyubrup Wines” with her husband, Dr. Kevin Cullen in 1971. The couple had emigrated from Tasmania in 1948 and arrived in the small town of Busselton, whereupon they purchased their first tract of land 1956. Kevin was a general practitioner who was just at the beginning of a glittering medical career and in his spare time (as already mentioned by Stuart Watson) he was partial to tinkling the ivories and was a proficient jazz player.

So where did Kevin’s interest in wine spark from?

Well, firstly he was a friend with John Gladstone, whose feasibility report was so instrumental in opening minds to the prospect of winemaking. On 13th July 1966, he sent a letter to Kevin Cullen advising that: “No difficulty will be experienced in obtaining sufficient Cabernet cuttings to plant ¼ acre if you proceed with the work this year.” After digging a few trial holes to find suitable soil, he finally purchased 17-acres and planted Cabernet, Riesling and Traminer since other cuttings were impossible to source. The first vintage was the 1974, a paltry 45-litres that Diana described as “dreadful”. After a better ’75, Bruce Allen was hired as winemaker and in 1977 they won their first trophy at the Canberra Wine Show. Towards the end of the decade new grape varieties such as Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Merlot were introduced, the latter the first to be planted in Margaret River.

Meanwhile Diana was balancing life between the winery and six children. She took over winemaking duties in 1981, winning a trophy at the Perth Wine Show for her Sauvignon Blanc, thus starting the matriarchal lineage that has been the driving force of Cullen. You could argue that this makes Cullen the “Pichon-Lalande” of Margaret River. The lineage continued with the youngest of her brood, Vanya, who commenced her own career in 1984 as assistant winemaker. After graduating from Roseworthy and after stints at Robert Mondavi Winery and Domaine Joseph Drouhin, she became senior winemaker in 1989 and oversaw the purchase of the Mangan Vineyard in 1995. In 1998 she began to read about Biodynamics and her interest flourished. Perhaps she was taking a leaf out of her parents’ book, since they had successfully campaigned against bauxite mining along the coast. I asked Vanya herself what provided the catalyst?

“Biodynamics came from mum and dad. It flowed on naturally from the legacy of minimal chemical inputs, to organic and then by Biodynamics came after going to a workshop with Aubert de Villaine from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Anne-Claude Leflaive, who were inspirations.”

“In the 1990s, the vineyard was a bit of decline because there was no knowledge about old vines,” Vanya tells me as we taste through barrel samples that demonstrate the nuances of her terroir. “We noticed a difference within a year of becoming certified organic in 2003, then certified biodynamic in the vineyard in 2005 and 2008 in the winery. In terms of disease prevention and invigorating the soil, we use seaweed and fish emulsion, and also preparation 500 and 501.”

Vanya follows all the central tenets of Biodynamism including a strict observation of lunar and planetary cycles, the application of homeopathic remedies and eschewing the use of copper in the vineyard.

I noticed that as we toured the vineyard together, she showed a common trait of many a passionate winemaker of becoming seemingly “lost” in her vines, as if entranced by their presence. One can see how all her time and energy are invested in the vineyard and of course that is reciprocated in the energy the vines place into the quality of their fruit: quid pro quo.

For many years she has felt no need to enter the Australian Show system that some wineries depend upon, even though she regularly judges at competitions, including this local one. She would rather let the wine do the talking.

The Vineyard

Cullen currently farms 28-hectares of vine: 11.33ha of Cabernet Sauvignon on granite and gravely/loam soil planted in 1971, complemented by 1976 plantings of 7.43ha of Chardonnay, 5.49ha Sauvignon Blanc, 1.14ha Semillon, 0.92ha Pinot Noir, 1.28ha Merlot and 0.41ha of Cabernet Franc (excluding the Mangan Vinyard that is under conversion to Biodynamics.) They have never sought to irrigate their vines, which Vanya believes gives them natural balance and they utilize and under-vine weeder, re-mounding the soil underneath the vine in order to disturb the reproductive cycle of Margaret River’s greatest pest, the South African garden weevil.

Vanya was keen to express her philosophy that great wine is made in the vineyard, with preferably as little interference as possible. Fruit is picked by hand, sorted and crushed before alcoholic fermentation using natural yeasts with no acidification. The red wine is then transferred into French oak barrel, the reds usually spending 20-22 months in élevage with up to 50% new oak used for the flagship Diana Madeline Cabernet blend. The Chardonnay is whole-bunch pressed and also matured in French oak barrels for around 10 months.

Taking a holistic approach in both the vineyard and the winery, one can see how Cullen has nurtured a delicate balance between the inter-related forces of Nature. Of course, what you do not need is a bloody great brewery to set up shop next door and potentially decimate your natural yeast culture. Unfortunately, that is exactly on the cards, with a council decision pending in June whether to give the green light (see below for link to their website where you can sign a petition.)

The Wines

Apart from my visit to the Cullen winery, my tasting notes are culled from private dinners where their wines were presented. Without doubt, Cullen fully deserves their reputation as one of Australia’s, let alone Margaret River’s, greatest producers for both whites and reds. They epitomize the region’s ability to produce expressive wine surfeit with character, wines that seek to transpose the minutiae of terroir into the sensory delight.

When I asked Vanya how she would describe the style of her wines, she wrote: “Wine style is the purest way to reflect the land and its individuality. That is beautiful. It is about nature and renewal.”

Where Cullen really excels is marrying that Old World/New World sensibility, the Chardonnays inspired by Burgundy and yet a little fruitier and fuller in the mouth than their counterparts in France. The flagship Kevin John Chardonnay 2007 is about as good as Australian Chardonnay gets, struck through with racy acidity (just pH3.0) and counterbalanced by layers of refined fruit, a touch of vanilla imparted by its 10 months in French oak that rounds out the finish, but not conspicuously so. The wines can also age extremely well. A Chardonnay 2000 donated by Vanya to a judges’ dinner was still fresh and vibrant with touches of tropical fruit and honeycomb, a slight chalkiness to the tannins that lent edginess, enhancing its vivacious qualities through maturity.

Similarly, the Diana Madeline Cabernet is rightly regarded as one of the crown jewels of Margaret River and a mini-vertical with Vanya on the restaurant terrace evinced a wine that I think has improved in recent years. It is usually a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, although it can vary depending on the growing season and a little Petit Verdot and Malbec add a little ‘seasoning’. Both the Diana Madeline Cabernet 1995 and 2001 are expressive wines, but I think do not have equivalent fineness of tannins when juxtaposed against recent successes such as the outstanding Diana Madeline Cabernet 2004 and 2007, both of which make the silly prices charged by Bordeaux even more ridiculous. The latter is tightly coiled, a tight ball of energy that will be released over the next 15-20 years, a Cabernet imbued with that rare commodity of effortlessness as perfected by the Old World.

If you have not discovered the joys of Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay, then Cullen is a perfect place to start with either their entry level-wines or their flagships. They are not cheap, that must be said, but then again perfectionism comes at a price and just one visit is enough to witness the lengths they go to. As for the Biodynamic broad bean…well, 100-points.

The Matriarch of Margaret: Cullen Wines

Tasting Notes

2009 Cullen Mangan Vineyard Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 91-93
Tasted at the Cullen Winery. This has a gorgeous nose with light grapefruit, pineapple and apple-blossom (although it had just been bottled this morning.) The palate is well balanced with good depth of fruit, bright green fruits, kiwi, apple-blossom and a touch of Conference pear; phenolic towards the harmonious finish. This ’09 shows great potential, it bounds with freshness and vigour. Tasted November 2009. 

2008 Cullen Mangan Vineyard Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 90
Tasted at the Cullen Winery. This has a very well defined nose with apple-blossom, lime, a touch of passion fruit and a hint of limestone. There is a slight grassiness and herbaceous quality coming from the Sauvignon on the entry, good acidity, crisp with touches of nettle and gooseberry towards the finish. Just perfect for a summer’s day. Drink now-2015+ Tasted November 2009.

2009 Cullen Cullen Vineyard Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 92-94
Tasted at the Cullen Winery. This is more generous on the nose than the ’08: lovely touches of apple-blossom, Conference pear, a touch of dried apricot and white flowers. This has such great lift and expression. The palate is medium-bodied, soft entry, very harmonious, green apple, lime, apricot and a touch of white peach. Elegant and sensuous on the finish. This is a Margaret River Semillon/Sauvignon at its very best and comes highly recommended. Tasted November 2009.

2008 Cullen Cullen Vineyard Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 88
Tasted at the Cullen Winery. This is more reticent on the nose than the 2009, apple-blossom, a touch of peony, gooseberry and a touch of pear. The palate is medium-bodied, a little greener than the 2009, soft entry, just lacking a little depth and vivacity towards the finish. This is still a commendable Semillon/Sauvignon, but it needs to develop a little more chutzpah. Drink now-2014. Tasted November 2009.

2000 Cullen Chardonnay 91
Tasted at a private dinner in Perth. This ’00 Chardonnay demonstrates how well these wines age. The nose displays subtle hints of tropical fruit, mango, a touch of almond and honeycomb. The palate is very well balanced with edgy, almost chalky tannin, striking acidity that lends this wine such vibrancy and poise. Very elegant with fine mineralité coming through on the finish. Superb, probably at its peak now. Drink now-2015. Tasted November 2009.

2002 Cullen Chardonnay 89
Tasted at a private dinner in Margaret River. A moderate straw colour. The ’02 Chardonnay has an attractive bouquet with honeysuckle, dried apricot and just a hint of custard creams, all with good definition. The palate displays very fine weight, the lees quite dominant on the entry with racy acidity, but perhaps just marred (unlike the ’00) but a touch of heat on the finish. Drink now-2012. Tasted November 2009.

2007 Cullen Chardonnay Kevin John 95
Tasted at the Cullen Winery. Whole-bunch pressed and matured in French oak barrel for 10 months, the nose is well defined with touches of Kaffir lime, elderflower, almond and some fine lees-y aromas developing with time, then evolving some lovely apricot and peach scents. The palate is medium-bodied, good acidity, very finely balanced with subtle peach, apricot and guava flavours, hints of nougat towards the finish. This Chardonnay is vibrant, tense and satisfying and even better than the ’06. Drink now-2020. Tasted November 2009.

1994 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Reserve 91
Tasted blind at dinner in Margaret River, this ’94 Bordeaux blend has aged well. Ripe redcurrant, baked cherry and wild hedgerow on the nose with a hint of kirsch. It completely belies its age. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins supporting succulent red-berried fruit, rounded in texture, very harmonious with a touch of molasses and fresh fig towards the persistent finish. This is drinking beautifully now. Drink now-2014. Tasted November 2009.

1995 Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon 90
Tasted at the Cullen Winery. This has a ripe, quite succulent nose with damson, sloes and boysenberry, looking a little muffled with age but still fresh. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, slightly savoury on the entry with black cherries, cooked meats, powdery tannins with a touch of tobacco on the dry, masculine finish. Very fine. Drink now-2014. Tasted November 2009.

2000 Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon 91
Tasted at the Cullen Winery. The aromatic are very delineated with black fruits, boysenberry, touches of raspberry leaf and blueberry, hints of bell pepper and mulberry developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied and beautifully balanced with fine talcum tannins, very focused with pure blackberry, mulberry, cooked meats with a finish that reminds me of an introverted Touriga Naçional (and I mean that in a good way.) A little short, perhaps, but I like the style and understatement. Drink now-2015. Tasted November 2009.

2004 Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon 95
Tasted at a private dinner in Margaret River. This is Margaret River Cabernet at its best. An utterly seductive bouquet a ripe dark berried fruit, crushed stone, hints of boysenberry and a touch of tobacco. Wonderful delineation, seeming to expand in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a brooding intensity, wonderful definition with a silky smooth texture. Very harmonious and long on the finish. Bordeaux: watch out! Drink 2012-2025. Tasted November 2009.

2005 Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon 92
Tasted at the Cullen Winery. This is very pure on the nose with black plum, raspberry leaf, a touch of iodine and something quite saline/seaweedy. The full-bodied palate is finely balanced with pure powdery tannins, tightly-coiled with lovely acidity, rounded and sensuous with real mineralité coming through towards the structured finish that shows less of that sur-maturité element than in previous bottles. Superb. Drink now-2018. Tasted November 2009.

2006 Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon 90
Tasted at the Cullen Winery. A blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Malbec, this is more herbaceous and earthy on the nose, but still well defined with some intriguing bell pepper notes coming through – very Bordeaux-like in fact. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins, again, touches of bell pepper, graphite and dried herbs interleaved between blackberry and blueberry fruit. It is a little short and austere on the finish, but impressive for the vintage. Drink now-2015. Tasted November 2009.

2007 Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon 95
Tasted at the Cullen Winery. The ’07 Diana Madeline Cabernet is a blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot and matured in French oak (48% new), the ’07 Diana Madeline is quite broody on the nose, rather closed, blackberry leaf, raspberry, boysenberry with hints of liquorice and mocha. Complex. The palate is medium-bodied with powdery tannins, lovely black/mulberry fruit, elegant but with very good weight on the tightly coiled, graphite tinged finish. Excellent. Drink 2011-2020. Tasted November 2009.