10 Australian Reds
New reviews of outstanding Australian Grenache, Sangiovese and Tempranillo, as well as the ubiquitous Shiraz-based reds
Shiraz may be Australia’s calling card, but it’s not the only note this big and complex winegrowing nation can sing. In this group of 10 red wines, all outstanding and all priced at $50 or less, half of the wines rely on Grenache, Sangiovese or Tempranillo for their character.
The honors for top value go to Fetish The Watcher 2008, a Shiraz-based red that is the brainchild of U.S. importer Mike Opdahl, who worked with Rolf Binder on the wines through 2006. It’s in the fresh, vibrant style that has mostly replaced the big, brawny profile that once characterized Aussie Shiraz imported to the U.S.
That also applies to John Duval’s Entity, Charles Cimicky’s Trumps and Chateau Tanunda, a Barossa-based winery that has been around for more than a century but is exporting to the U.S. for the first time.
The most intriguing Grenache in this group comes from Jasper Hill. Best known for its peppery, complex cool-climate Shiraz wines, Jasper Hill started growing Grenache at a separate vineyard. The 2007 has a wonderful sinuous structure and mineral-accented fruit flavors.
Penfolds Bin 138 and Sons of Eden Kennedy, both Grenache-based blends that also use Mourvèdre and Shiraz, are fun to drink. Kangarilla Road Sangiovese from McLaren Vale could give some Tuscan reds a run for their money, and Gemtree Luna Roja, a Tempranillo from McLaren Vale, takes a different tack but delivers as much pleasure.
JOHN DUVAL Shiraz Barossa Entity 2008 Score: 91 | $40
Bright and generous, not weighty. A ripe mouthful of blackberry, floral and mineral flavors, lingering on the crisp and refined finish. Impressive for its nicely etched flavor profile. Drink now through 2012. 1,000 cases imported.
—H.S.
JASPER HILL Grenache Heathcote Cornella Vineyard 2007 Score: 91 | $45
Silky and lithe, a sinuous wine showing cherry, pomegranate and mineral flavors, wrapping harmoniously with fine tannins on the finish. Drink now through 2014. 50 cases imported.
—H.S.
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