12 Outstanding Australian Reds
These 90-point-plus reds from our most recent tastings play against Aussie stereotypes
Whatever your perceptions of Australian red wines, the wines in this group are likely to run counter to them. The Cabernet-based wines are neither too herbal nor lacking in fruit, but burst with flavor and refinement. These Shirazes are, for the most part, neither excessively alcoholic nor over the top on ripeness, instead achieving remarkable balance.
In the past, regions known for Cabernet, such as Coonawarra, Yarra Valley, McLaren Vale and Margaret River, often produced wines with overwhelming green, even vegetal character, but the ones in this group from those regions have found a way to tame the green monster without losing that essential Cabernet personality. An increasing emphasis in Australia on getting the Cabernet fruit to ripen fully pays dividends in wines that play savory notes against a chorus of fruit in beguiling ways.
Shiraz from Adelaide Hills, Heathcote, Yarra and the Hunter Valley play against the Aussie stereotype of honking big structure and ripe flavor. The ones in this group have the ripeness, but they rein it in for a more approachable style. Those who like the brawny style might want to try the wines from Nashwauk, a new name from McLaren Vale that plays the muscle game without losing a sense of elegance.
Finally, Shiraz takes a back seat to Grenache in a perennial favorite blend from Barossa that actually feels crisp in the mouth.
JASPER HILL Shiraz Heathcote Georgia's Paddock 2007 Score: 91 | $75
Firm in texture, with grainy tannins playing against toasted bread accents and a core of ripe cherry and plum fruit. Finishes with a hint of coffee and plenty of finesse. Best from 2012 through 2017. 100 cases imported.
—H.S.
LEEUWIN Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Art Series 2005 Score: 90 | $45
Polished, ripe and open-textured, offering a generous mouthful of dark chocolate-scented blackberry and cherry flavors, standing upright and refined as the finish lingers. Drink now through 2015. 800 cases imported.
—H.S.
YARRA YERING Dry Red No. 1 Yarra Valley 2007 Score: 90 | $95
Lithe in texture, with a welcome transparency to the complex bright berry, dark chocolate and roasted meat flavors, lingering on the refined finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2017. 50 cases imported.
—H.S.
YARRA YERING Shiraz Yarra Valley Underhill 2007 Score: 90 | $95
A distinctive style, offering meaty, slightly gamy character around a supple core of cherry and plum fruit. The silky texture and elegant structure define this best. Drink now through 2017. 50 cases imported.
—H.S.
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