This time of year raises the prospect of brunch (because, yes, it's almost Mother's Day), and brunch raises the question of brunch wine. Slightly sweet, bright and low in alcohol - between 5 and 7 percent - bubbly Moscato, or Muscat, is a mellow way to ease into that gray area of mealtime.

Moscato can be delicious, but admittedly it's not a wine that finds a ton of uses. It's a bit light for dessert - though perfect with fruit - and too flourishy for most main courses.

Yet it should have more versatility - with goat cheeses, for instance, or with chile-spiked meals. (Think pork tamales.) In that spirit, consider these for more than the usual brunch onslaught.

These largely come from either Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains, used in most of the finest Muscat-based wines, or the ancient Muscat of Alexandria (a.k.a. Moscatel).